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Editorial Reviews
Last summer, The New Yorker published Chef Bourdain's shocking, "Don't Eat Before Reading This." Bourdain spared no one's appetite when he told all about what happens behind the kitchen door. Bourdain uses the same "take-no-prisoners" attitude in his deliciously funny and shockingly delectable book, sure to delight gourmands and philistines alike. From Bourdain's first oyster in the Gironde, to his lowly position as dishwasher in a honky tonk fish restaurant in Provincetown (where he witnesses for the first time the real delights of being a chef); from the kitchen of the Rainbow Room atop Rockefeller Center, to drug dealers in the east village, from Tokyo to Paris and back to New York again, Bourdain's tales of the kitchen are as passionate as they are unpredictable. Kitchen Confidential will make your mouth water while your belly aches with laughter. You'll beg the chef for more, please.
Anthony Bourdain is the author of Bone in the Throat. This is his first work of non-fiction. He is the executive chef at Brasserie Les Halles in New York City. 'Benedict Arnold. Alger Hiss. Anthony Bourdain.'-London Evening Standard
'With equal parts wit and wickedness, Bourdain [does] the unthinkable by revealing trade secrets that chefs and restaurateurs cringe to read.' -Restaurant Business magazine
Related Reviews
I laughed so hard, I forgot (on purpose) to eat! Yes! Yuk!
Bourdain has put together a truly gonzo collection of restaurant tales that aren't all depraved...but, like his restaurateur/chef subjects, most of them are! Kudos to him for a book that is this honest while being this hysterical. If you have the, um, stomach for it, this is a book you'll remember fondly. Well worth digesting!
There is much to like in this book. Occasional insights into why ordering fish on Monday is not such a good idea (it's left over from Thursday's delivery) and the logistics of running a major restaurant are fascinating. Also, the anecdotes about management style and successful vs. unsuccessful restaurants make for interesting reading. Bourdain demolishes the mystique of cooking as an art to be mastered by only a few. From his perspective, cooking is a craft that can be learned through grit, endurance, and hard knocks. As he points out, the mainstays of his and many other kitchens are immigrants from Ecuador, Mexico, Bengal and elsewhere who are taught how to recreate consistently and under pressure dishes as directed by the chef. Restaurant work is not easy, and only the strong survive. It's a war out there--and the kitchen is the combat zone.
That said, "Kitchen Confidential" is an uneven book that should have had a good editing. The individual chapters have the feel of freestanding pieces, and some of their content is repetitious. Much of the jargon and some of the details of how a kitchen is organized aren't explained until late in the book, even though he's been referring to them from the beginning.. By the time he finally does explain the slang and the esoteric details, the astute reader has already figured it out.
My major complaint about the book, however, is that the book seems to be as much about the author and his excesses as about the places he's worked. Bourdain was a heavy-duty heroin addict and coke sniffer during the 70s and 80s, and he conjures up the craziness of the period with zest. He's always worked in kitchens where the culture was testosterone-drenched and the language beyond macho. Although I didn't find the coarseness particularly shocking considering the primarily male crew and the amount of pressure under which they work, it did get a little wearisome after awhile. Towards the end of the book, Bourdain gives examples of chefs and kitchens with entirely different ways of doing things. As he himself admits, his testosterone-drenched kitchens may be as much an offshoot of his own personality and experiences as restaurant culture itself. In the end, Bourdain comes across as a kind of kooky romantic--the kitchen staff is his family, albeit a dysfunctional one, and he loves their quirks and idiosyncrasies, even (and maybe especially) when they veer off into the criminal.
Overall, I can't say I disliked this book--in fact I enjoyed parts of it immensely--but Bourdain's "sex, drugs, and rock and roll" attitude began to lose its appeal toward the end. This is quick, revealing and at times funny read, but take it with a grain of salt (fleur de sel of course). 3.75 stars.
Is it so bad to be an arrogant SOB?
I was surprised at the incredible coarseness of the book, but I thought, OK, that's real life in the restaurant world, if you can't stand the heat get out of the kitchen so to speak. But then towards the end he shows you that actually that's NOT how it is all through the restaurant world. Forget the last couple hundred pages.
So maybe he's just a jerk. Do I feel good about giving my money away to some jerk? But then again, he'll gladly TELL you he's a jerk. That's almost his point. Isn't the view of a crude, wild, hedonistic lifestyle that most of us would never live but still find fascinating why we buy these memoirs in the first place?
I found myself saying, "Wow, what an SOB (turn page) I can't stand this jerk (turn page)..." And that's not necessarily a bad thing, although it did leave me wondering whether I could really say I "liked" the book. What bothered me more was the poor structure of the book and the almost total lack of editing. Really weird things, like commas constantly popped up at random in the middle of, sentences. Like that. It grew more than a little annoying. And it was almost the last chapter before he actually defined all the cooking terms and the slang he had been using for hundreds of pages. People showed up whose significance he didn't explain until a number of chapters later.
So he's annoying, in many ways the book is annoying, but it's a fun and wild ride that will definitely give you something to talk about with your friends.
An irreverent look inside the professional kitchen
True-to-Life Kitchen Adventures
Whatever faults the author and the book may have, this is a knee-slappingly funny account of what really goes on in kitchens, and anybody who wants to be a chef should be forced to read this book before attending cooking school. Those of you benighted souls who have no interest in fine cuisine and four-star restaurants probably won't understand the truth and humor that underly Chef Bourdain's cutting prose.
A slice of life told from the pit of the stomach
What a wonderful read this is...
It's wicked, funny, touching and fascinating. I went on errands with my wife, so that I could read to her while she drove -- it's so good that you want to call up strangers and just start reading pages to them -- any page will do.
The best writing is honest writing -- and it doesn't get more honest than this.
What a geat read. I'm sure that Les Halles, where he works his craft, will be "booked" to infinity because of this book -- as it should be.
Anyone who loves food will devour this with greed...and wish it were longer.
Thanks to his French heritage, Bourdain had learned to appreciate superb food as a youngster, and his parents had the resources to send him to any college he chose. Bourdain, however, likes to live on the edge, and his desire to live life to the fullest and push the limits soon led to multiple drug dependencies and heavy alcohol usage that kept steady employment difficult to maintain for a time. Remarkably, though not detailed exactly how in this book, Bourdain managed to beat his addictions, and has gone on to become not only a talented executive chef, but also a successful novelist and writer in his spare time. How anyone could even find spare time in a chef's life as he describes it is unfathomable- -Bourdain obviously thrives on stress and challenges.
The pace of the book is relentless- -it's one of those volumes that you can race through in a single day, not allowing anyone to interrupt you. Bourdain's language is not for everyone though- -he accurately records the words that are said behind the kitchen doors, so if you are squeamish about sex or take offense easily, this book is not for you.
This book confirms the importance of knowing who is cooking your food. After all, food is something you put inside your body, so it is a real act of trust to consume something that someone else has prepared. It's remarkable that many people are quite content to let total strangers prepare their food. Why would anyone frequent fast food restaurants where most of the cooks are teenagers with no talent or interest in food preparation, doing it all for minimum wage? At least in kitchens like Bourdain's, although some of the cooks may be oversexed drug addicts with filthy mouths, only those who can consistently achieve high cooking standards manage to stay on. Bourdain also reminds us to use our heads when placing our orders. After all, when you tell the waiter what you want, the food isn't just going to appear on the plate out of thin air when the cook snaps his fingers. If the fish market isn't open on the weekend, then Monday isn't a great day for ordering fish. Today's luncheon special may indeed contain leftovers from last night's menu. Some items take longer than others to prepare- -hence shouldn't be ordered at five minutes before closing. This book provides a fascinating perspective on what it's like to study at the CIA, how an executive chef spends his time, and what may be happening behind those closed doors at your favorite restaurant.
Want to be a chef? Read this first.
PS: Bourdain advises that the quickest way to find out if you *really* want to be a chef is to become a restaurant's dishwasher for six months. And he's absolutely right.
Marvellously informative, hysterically witty!
Secrets revealed- the dark world of a restaurant kitchen!
Some of the highlights include chapters on how to cook like the pros (where he gives some good tips and advice for all of us in the ignorant populace), what to be warry of on restaurant menus and what type of restaurants to avoid (including his soapbox speech on vegetarians and why they are "the enemy of everything good and decent in the human spirit" - I am a vegetarian by the way and you can tell that I am so offended), and of course the hilarious chapter on why people who want to own restaurants are sick in the head. The first paragraph of this chapter is a classic.
This book does contain quite a bit of foul language. Also, a few sections of this book can drag on with a ton of detail about absolutely everything that goes on in the kitchen, but all in all this book is quite amusing. There are many more highlights that those I pointed out, and I do recommend this book to anyone interested in learning more about the realities of the restaurant world.
Some Good Laughs, Been There, He's Right.
He is equally honest about his own faults, drugs & his distaste for authority. Two chapters shine through the most. "Bigfoot," practical info for the reader on dining out, & "Cook like the pro's," on the art of managing people. All in all a fascinating look into an industry that only a small percentage of people ever experience.
Mr. Bourdain also allows the non-professional to see what actually goes into cooking lunch for a hundred plus guest and then turning around and doing two hundred for dinner (don't forget they're different menus). The amount of prep and the realization that at one time or another you will be in the weeds, especially if your mise is out of sorts, is felt in this read. And though some want to romanticize about the Chef's life, Mr. Bourdain has been doing this for twenty-five years and he's still cutting his own shallots and doing inventory every week.
Bourdain also takes a good look at the people who work in this industry. From the "actor" servers to the great line cooks from just south of the border(that's you, Juve), the amusing and different people you'll find are quite astonishing. The life is really for the people who could never do the nine to five but who aren't afraid to put in a twelve hour day. Bourdain describes us characters as sociopaths or anti-social, and he might just be right. The production that the kitchen goes through daily has to be ran by people who truly love food or just people who can make risotto taste the same way fifty times a day, otherwise it just won't work. Don't forget there's always the ever present barracho somewhere in upper managment.
For anyone who is serious about getting into the industry, this book is worth while to see what you're getting yourself into. Did I mention that I've worked over forty hours the last three days, thirty hours split between Christmas Eve and Christmas day. It's the life and you either love it or hate it and Bourdain makes a strong commentary for both.
The read is also very friendly and if you have a good reading spot it might only take one sitting.
The main draw here is Anthony Bourdain his own bad, raunchy self. He is Not A Nice Person. I wouldn't want to be him, or even particularly close to him. I'm not sure I even want to eat his food - maybe I know a little too much about his kitchen for comfort. But: man, he tells a good story. Some parts of the story drag, as the various doomed restaurants of his early career start blending together. That costs him a star in my rating. Otherwise, it's an exciting, morbidly fascinating view into Bourdain's life as a sensualist, and the "dysfunctional family" of his kitchen.
I "read" this book as an audiobook from audible.com, which I highly recommend. Bourdain himself does the reading, adding life and dimension to this character study. Also, it gets you past the unfortunate editorial flaws mentioned in a previous review.
The experiences he describes here as having molded his personality, and which continue to mold his kitchens, make the book so amusing and both his individual character and the restaurant business at large so difficult to swallow. Fortunately, he does present, in a very well written chapter, a counterpoint description of a fellow, yet civilized, chef's kitchen and restaurant.
If your the least bit interested or experienced in restaurant dining, this is a must read: an insider's narrative of a world most of us only visit for a few hours at a time.
Laugh Out Loud and Hold Your Breath Aghast All Mixed Togethe
I particularly appreciated the author's soul searching on how he got where he is rather than becoming a world class chef, which he claims not to be. He attributes it to taking head chef jobs rather than learning more from masters early in his career. The education and apprenticeship theme is played up as the focus of both Ruhlman's "The Making of a Chef" and Dornenburg and Page's "Becoming a Chef". Although this is not corner diner food, in a typical self-deprecating aside, Bourdain points out that it's really the shallots and monte au beurre that lend the professional taste.
Bourdain's respect for food and cooking is evidenced most clearly in the reverential tones reserved for Scott Bryan of Veritas (in New York). He begins the chapter by asking the reader to forget everything they've read up to this point and to look at Veritas, where you can tell how good they are from the spotless side towels, the shallot brunoise in the mise en place, and the fact that everything is prepared a la minute.
Although just about every aspect of running a restaurant is covered, I really appreciated the running discussion of creating menus and specials; you realize every chef-owner is first and foremost a Garde Manger.
This book's strong medicine. If you love food and need an antidote, try Ruth Reichl's autobiographically inspired "Tender at the Bone" which is as sweet as Bourdain's book is sour.
You'll Never Eat Fish or Specials on Monday!!
An in-your-face first hand account of 25 yrs of cooking
What I disliked about the book was actually what I came to like in the end - his seeminly long-winded explanations of everything. Yet the descriptions, often accompanied by many superlatives seem to add layers, or extra depth to the book. It is definitely not spare, but it suits a food-memoir. I am just reading a memoir by a New Zealand/Italian chef and it really suffers by comparison. It is spare and tries to be amusing. Bourdain doesn't care whether you laugh or not. However the book simply due to its subject matter and unapologetic stance is fascinating reading.
It starts out with his learning to appreciate food during a trip to France his family took when he was young. He, by his own admission wasn't a very amenable child on the trip - insisting on hamburgers the whole way. Until he got left out of a restaurant. Then he started trying everything - simply ordering the most bizarre things he could for shock value. The desire to shock has clearly continued through his life.
He sort of fell into cooking, starting out as a dishwasher in a holiday resort town - and again that very unlikeable side of him - the arrogant swaggerer was his downfall. So he went off to cooking school - the inappropriately named CIA to learn more and to show them at the restaurant he had been humiliated at just what he was worth after all! So he did become a cook, and now a chef, and that arrogance remains - in fact it seems it is what gets someone through Cooking school and to survive in kitchens - which don't sound very glamorous. At one stage he talks about one team of cooks he was with who would re-enact scenes from "Apocalypse Now" before starting cooking each night. And that to me really best sums up the kitchen scenes he describes - a battle-ground. He certainly links it with aa army mentality himself - the slang alone - if not the sheer volume of organisation involved.
He even takes us through one of his days (unenviable). I wouldn't have thought it would make that great reading - lots of lists of things he has to do - but it is fascinating reading. Not the least because he writes about his mistakes as well as his triumphs.
His life and career didn't carve a traditional path, but even in the periods where he was a strung-out dope fiend the writing is more about restaurants and the restaurant trade. And it is a very sharp insider view.
Not that I ever wanted to be a chef, but I certainly don't want to be one now. I can't imagine Julia Child cooking in this kind of kitchen - maybe she was as foul-mouthed as they are. Bourdain does admit that not all kitchens are like his although I think maybe most of them might be. There are a lot of egos in cooking after all.
However this book is more than a outing for egos. It is also a food memoir and it works very well as that. Bourdain loves food and shares his memories of favourite foods, recipes and moments well. Recommended!
KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL did not disappoint. I laughed all the way through the book and learned a lot along the way. Think Hunter Thompson, drugs and all, writing about the restaurant business.
I learned that running a restaurant is not for the faint of heart. Just hauling all the bloody meat carcasses around would be enough to turn your stomach. Learning to carve the beef, fish, poultry and lamb would put me off the job right away. The pressure of turning out 600+ dinners in an evening is daunting.
Paying the bills, keeping the nut-case employees happy, knowing which Italian family currently controls disposal of waste, and trying to stay on top of the ever changing and always fickle American palette is enough to make anyone's head spin.
The leveling factor, or so it seems, is chemicals -- and lots of them. I don't think Bourdain has drawn a completely sober breath since he first stepped into a commercial kitchen at the Dreadnaught in Provincetown, Cape Cod. When they weren't drinking up profits from the Dreadnaught's bar, they were high on coke, LSD, mushrooms laced with honey, and finally, heroin.
As Bourdain explains:
So who the hell, exactly, ARE these guys, the boys and girls in the trenches? You might get the impression from the specifics of MY less than stellar career that all line cooks are wacked-out moral degenerates, dope fiends, refugees, a thuggish assortment of drunks, sneak thieves, sluts and psychopaths. You wouldn't be too far off base.
After reading this riotous tale, I've made some changes in my dining out behaviors. I will not eat fish on Mondays. I won't "do brunch." I will schedule my dining excursions for weekdays, not weekends. I will never order anything well done and I won't insult the chef by asking for sauce "on the side." I will sit at the bar and watch what comes out of the kitchen before ordering. I will skip lunch and save my appetite for dinner. Also, on my next trip to New York, I will make reservations Bourdain's restaurant, Brasserie Les Halles...for Tuesday night, of course!
If you want to know WHY I've changed my routines, read this book. You'll learn some interesting facts and chances are, you'll laugh a lot during the process.
Enjoy!
Funny, personal, insightful ... a little scary too!
The book is a funny, multi-dimensional, personal journey of a talented chef through cuisine's netherworld. Although some reviewers disliked the frenetic style, it was resonant with the frenetic pace of restaurant kitchens. Kitchen Confidential is not only a fast-paced page-turner, but, indeed, it was one of the few books that I was sorry to see end. Bourdain is a marvelous writer ... conversational and witty.
Amazon tells us that Bourdain has two novels in the pipeline ... I can't wait until they are formally published. I also hope that he gives us a Kitchen Confidential redux ... a more extended view from the culinary peaks, to complement this book's story of his climb.
A must-read for any and all ex- and current restaurant and food lovers
The writing is crisp, although not clean, and extremely easy to read. You'll find yourself going from chapter to chapter with a promise to turn the light off after the next, and then read on instead. Entertaining, engrossing, Mr. Bourdain's life and recollections, however accurate or exaggerated, are worth reading for the entertainment value, the nostaglia it instills (in those of us who have worked in some capacity in a restaurant), and the appreciation it might help you have the next time you sit down to a nice meal.
Cheetos Are A "Guilty Pleasure" - This Book Is Foodie Smack
First of all, I've dined at Mssr. Bourdain's restaurant, Brasserie Les Halles, on two ocassions. Next, I dine out for something like 80% of my meals; I *can* cook, I *enjoy cooking*, but it's not time- nor cost-effective right now, so I'm at the mercy of the people in the back of the house. Finally, I'm genuinely fascinated by what goes on back there. This book is truly gripping, and I don't hand that term out lightly.
Don't read this book on a full stomach; the tales of infidelity, questionable kitchen practices, NYC sanitation, mafioso and the hooligans back there will put you off your dinner like rotting cabbage. For Foodies, this book is a little like standing in the grocery store line and reading the headlines of the Weekly World News; it seems a tad over-the-top, but there's just enough plausiblity to make it morbidly compelling.
Oh indeed, the restaurant industry is a beautiful place!
If you have ever been in the industry and been burned (yes, really burned) by a chef or "broiler boy," you will live in the pages with Bourdain. I have recommended this to every friend I have from the field, as there is a certain kinship that occurs with your fellow garcons, chefs, managers, etc. and Bourdain brings all of those tales to you on a beautiful plate to feast upon.
And it by far is the best book on my night table this year.
Cheers and Salut!
Can I have a side order of Disturbing mixed with entertaining?
His book is interesting because 98% of the general public only see the inside of a restaurant dining room. They see the nonruffled waiters. We see the host. For all of the serenity of the dining room...Bourdain quickly introduces us to the mayhem that exists behind those doors of the kitchen.
If you are offended by sexual talk and escapades, then this book may overwhelm you. If you are offended by strong talk and colorful language, then this book may bother you. If you take this book for what it is worth--an inside view of a chef's life and willing to roll with the punches, you are in for a wild ride.
There were several chapters that were of great interest to me--A day in the life of the chef. Reading about their crazy hour schedule makes you appreciate their food and their work even more. It is not an easy life. Predictably, one of my favorite chapters was discussing what not to eat and when to not eat certain foods like No Fish Monday. If you like old fish that has sat around for 4 days, then Mondays are a perfect time to order the fish.
The authors experiences in Baltimore and Tokyo were also both interesting as well. The one thing that I enjoyed reading was how he described his failures. He did not pass the blame. He blamed himself for accepting jobs. He blamed himself for taking the money instead of taking a job that he felt he would succeed it. It was an honest declaration.
The book is a good read. Bourdain does not come off particulary really likeable but he comes off as human and thats important to note. If only the television show could have been as good as the book...maybe if they moved that show to cable, it could have been. Well done, errr, I mean, Medium done job Mr. Bourdain. I just may have to track down some of your other works. Thank you.
Much more than "No Fish on Mondays"
For anyone who was, is now or is just contemplating working in the madness that is the food service industry, PLEASE read this.
My favorite chapter: "What I Know About Meat."
Keep 'em coming, Tony!
Good read. Informative and motivating.
The story of Bourdain's path from delinquent to chef is interesting enough. The stories he tells about his misadventures as a young, arrogant, clueless jerk in his first kitchens are honestly and hilariously put forth. He doesn't spare himself, especially in one episode when he tells of working in a hard-core kitchen and getting burned on a frying pan, and whining to the other cooks that he needs burn creme. Their scornful and contemptous replies are just the kind of experience that beats sense into a man, as it did to Bourdain. He learned to be as rough and rude as those around him, and as he describes the kitchens he's worked in, that is PLENTY rude.
When Bourdain is describing the restaurant business he's just as funny and interesting. Whether he's describing why most restaurants fail (look at the owners) or why bartenders and chefs tend to become close friends (free drinks = free food) or why you should NEVER eat the seafood frittatas at a Sunday brunch (read the book to find out) it's always a blast to read. He's not just a treasure trove of neat stories. He's also an extremely talented writer, mean, profane, hilarious.
Some of the criticism levelled at this book is that Bourdain is only describing the restaurants he's worked at, not the industry as a whole. And Bourdain does address this in a chapter of his book when he describes the kitchen of a three-star chef working at an exquisite restaurant, which is as different from Bourdain's kitchens as an all-girl's school is to a maximum-security prison. It still doesn't detract from the pleasure you get from reading about his experiences.
I read and re-read this book like three times on my honeymoon, which should give you an idea of how much I liked it (it gave my wife ideas, like how bad a concussion I'd have if she brained me with it). I have a healthly fear of flying, but reading this book kept my nice and calm on the flight down. For that I gratefully thank Mr. Bourdain. His book was entertaining enough to push the terror from my mind. And from me, that is high praise indeed.
This book recounts his life and career rising to the top of the pack in the culinary world. It is a deeply personal and unvarnished look at the world of big-league professional food, and is full of insights on both food and the restaurant business. When I was younger I worked as a line cook in a relatively nice restaurant. Although my experience was somewhat less frenetic and more sanitary than the scene in New York, I can certainly attest that the cast of characters (and their flaws) revealed in this book is right on the money.
One thing I like about Bourdain and this book is that he tells the truth even when it's ugly. He explains why, for instance, not to order meat well done or why not to even think about ordering fish on Monday. (He's right on both accounts.) He doesn't dodge his own past when others would fail to mention diversionary activities such as a heroin addiction, and even though he comes across as cantankerous, he is a guy you can take at his word.
Some of this book is pure gold, not just for cooks and would be chefs, but for everyone. His writing ("Rules to Live By," page 64, and "A Commencement Address," page 293 in particular) is excellent and applies to any profession. He also shares many inside secrets of Les Halles (and other restaurants he has worked at), of winning "mise-en-place" (or just "meez;" people who really want to cook professionally should take this to heart), and technical opinions (why and how to use an offset serrated knife.)
This book is coarse and not for the faint of heart, but if you really want to know about cooking or cooks, it is the best (and funniest) single volume ever written. I highly recommend this book
Anthony Bourdain is one of my 'cooking gods' because he specialises in classic, time-proven dishes; he knows that all the world's great food is, basically, 'peasant' food, not the titivated, sculpted, value-added 'art works' on a large white plates -- and he's a good writer. I too write -- was once a food writer and journalist -- and I know how hard it is to combine the two jobs. This work is honest, controversial yet extremely fair in its assessments of the high-pressure world of the New York and American restaurant scene, then and now. I strongly recommend that you buy this book and then graduate to Bourdain's absolutely fantastic "Les Halles" cookbook. I use it, refer to it or just fawn over it at least three times every week. With over 25 years experience under my (large) belt, his Les Halles book 're-taught' me and gave me new inspiration to take up semi-professional cooking again, just for the pure joy of producing really special, simple, dishes. Please buy all his books; Bourdain is an honest, decent and admirable cook (I hate the term 'chef').
(No I'm not Tony Bourdain!) Just a genuine fan who appreciates his sharing of a once 'hidden' and unsung profession.
William Kenneth Halliwell
Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
Anthony Bourdain, a two-star chef and a junkie for everything from good food to drugs and sex, is unmercifully honest in his expose of the industry as well as his portrayal of himself. He is as delightful as he is haughty, particularly, in his descriptions of his exploits with his fellow chef cohorts Dimitri, Steven, and Adam-Last-Name-Unknown.
Bourdain's book is divided into separate chapters that could (and judging by the acknowledgments page did) appear as stand-alone articles. This is, simultaneously, the book's greatest strength and its greatest weakness. In this nonrestrictive format, Bourdain manages to tell various stories that have nothing more in common than food and the fact that he was present during those anecdotes. Yet, due to such a haphazard format, his book lacks continuity and a coherent timeline for all the events. The lack of a time frame might or might not be a reflection of the disorientation that Bourdain experienced while he was overindulging on drugs and crashing on the beaches of Long Island after his numerous stints as a chef in New York's Rainbow Room atop the Rockefeller Center.
As much self-indulgence as this chef experienced, he abstains from making his tales sound too egotistical and self-centered. Instead, he is passionate and levelheaded - there is nothing in the book that's there purely for shock value. It is clear that Bourdain values a no-frills approach not only in his Les Halles kitchen, but in his writing as well.
One of the quotes, located on the inside of the back cover of the Bloomsbury Paperback edition of the book, suggests that Bourdain is "a lucky sod" for being able to cook and write "brilliantly." I'd have to agree. Bordain's writing is concise, easy-to-read; his topics alarming and shocking at times. Throughout the book his writing is always hilarious and charming.
The most helpful chapter is "From Our Kitchen to Your Table." In it, Bourdain explains why he never orders meat well done, eats seafood in restaurants on Tuesdays and Thursdays, eats mussels only when he is the one who cooked them, eats bread regardless of his whereabouts, and always observes the body language of his waiter. In fact, this chapter is full of common sense and circumstantial evidence and should be mandatory reading before people step into a restaurant.
It is precisely these kinds of scandalous revelations that put Bourdain's books on bestseller lists over and over. I'll admit to having done many of the author's no-nos: ordering seafood from restaurants famous for other cuisine, eating brunch, and requesting an alteration of the contents of a menu item, among others. After reading this book, one thing I will definitely never do at a restaurant is order meat well done.
Bourdain's book earns its momentum with his description of his first oyster in the Gironde and doesn't let up until his elaborate description of consuming a fish's eye in Tokyo. Like its follow up, A Cook's Tour, Kitchen Confidential is essentially a book about making and eating mesmerizing food. Because as Bourdain aptly puts it, "in the end, maybe it is all about the food."
One of my favorite books OF ALL TIME
A Great Culinary Memoir. Glad Tony traded pan for pen.
The overriding message of the book is the same I have seen in all books written from the inside. Cooking in a busy restaurant kitchen, especially for the executive chef working the line or the expediting table is very, very hard work. Looking in from the outside, it is so hard, it is sometimes hard for me to appreciate how anyone would actually want to do it, let alone revel in it. This is especially true because we are not talking about Daniel Boulud or Charlie Trotter here. Bourdain may have been considered a `master chef', but he was in charge of the kitchen in a relatively undistinguished New York City brassiere lookalike. He is not creating new cuisine at his job, he is recreating classic French cuisine in a restaurant named after a famous French market. Not very much room for improvisation here.
Bourdain's tales of his early career are an enjoyable first course, but the real meat of the matter is in his tales of New York City restaurants behind the scenes. His trademark revelation is the fact that, in general, the fish served by restaurants on Monday is left over from deliveries made on Friday, but his most interesting stories revolve around a real restaurant owner whose identity Bourdain hides with the nom de guerre of `Bigfoot'. Bigfoot succeeds in the very difficult restaurant business with a passionate attention to the details of purchasing, chef's operations, and kitchen design.
My favorite story is the one of an artisinal bread starter, sometimes known as a poolish or sponge maintained by a singularly irresponsible baker who, with fermented hunks of this sponge made some of the best bread to be found in five states, including New York City. The introduction to this character is a desperate call to Bourdain in the middle of service from the baker requesting that someone in the kitchen feed the sponge. The name he gave the sponge would probably not make it through Amazon.com's automated review censor. I had no sense of what the role of this kind of sponge played in bread baking when I first read this, but after having read several books on artisinal bread baking, I appreciate the humor and irony even more than I did on first reading.
I have read many books on the culinary world since I first read `Kitchen Confidential' and most of the names like Rippert, Bouley, and Luongo unfamiliar to me on first reading are now counted as spiritual intimates. This makes Bourdain's book the sort of work which rewards rereading after two or three years have passed.
This book may be a classic in the very small field of culinary journalism.
The characters, events and emotions that he relates are real. His ability to show it as it is, and not pull any punches, is admirable. So many "civialians" go out to eat and never realize the dedication and struggle that is involved in getting that plate to the table, nor should they. He is shamelessly showning you a world that touches everyone and yet is never revealed. This is not the world of floppy hatted clowns with oversized bellies, but the world of dedicated professionals who toil endlessly under severe conditions to provide you, and themselves, with the joys of food. This book should be required reading for anyone who aspires to be a chef or restaraunteur.
An insider's look at the culinary arts
Good book, terrible kindle edition
The bad part is that Kindle edition has a typo in literally every other sentence. Clearly the result of a poorly OCR'd book without proper proof-reading. Nearly every foreign word was garbled. This made reading a book about cooking (lots of French terms) really annoying. The publisher should be ashamed to put out such a shoddy product.
First of all -- This guy loves food. This love oozes off the pages. I kept reading.
Next -- Anthony Bourdain is obviously an adrenalin junkie. Reading Kitchen Confidential is like watching a train wreck that never quite happens. You keep waiting for the author to either get back on the rails or fly off completely. I felt a bit voyeuristic at times, so mesmerized was I to see what awful thing would happen next.
Finally -- Bourdain is honest about himself and his life. He admits his mistakes, his self centeredness, and the many opportunities he wasted. He also doesn't pretend that in the end those mistakes didn't matter. He's honest, occasionally uncomfortably so. Perhaps what endeared the book to me was his admission near the end that he is not a 3 star chef, he couldn't be one if he wanted to, and he's OK with that. After the endless parade of over-inflated egos one sees on TV, this was refreshing. Thanks for being honest, chef.
Are you SURE you want to be a chef?
Bourdain's story is entertaining, fast-paced, profane, funny, iconoclastic (at least if you like celebrity TV chefs), revealing, occasionally nauseating, deeply personal ... and probably a lot more fun to read about than to have lived through. You won't look at restaurant food the same way again. Sure, you may be more suspicious about what it is you're really being served. But more importantly (to Bourdain anyway, I suspect), you'll have greater understanding and respect for the people who prepared it. The seamy underside of the restaurant world is the most headline-grabbing part of the book, but the real value comes from the author's own experiences, his revelation of the life of an NYC chef, and his obvious love of great food prepared well.
At the same time, though, it seemed to me like there's a little bit of bait-and-switch to it. Bourdain spends the whole book talking about the manic, hard-rock, drug-driven, frenetic, foul-mouthed, take-no-prisoners world of the professional chef, laying it all on the line for us: this is what it's really like. And then, in one chapter, he pulls the rug out from under himself with his profile of Scott Bryan, another New York chef who, Bourdain admits, is night-and-day different from our author, and also more knowledgeable, more respected, and more successful. It's to his immense credit that Bourdain is absolutely up front with us about why Bryan is a three-star chef and he isn't.
I plan to read Bourdain's other non-fiction work and his two novels. This soul-baring book has put Anthony Bourdain on my list of authors I definitely plan to keep an eye on.
Expose, Confession, Textbook, & Restaurant Guide
For a kitchen novice like me, the book is illuminating. Bourdain shifts nicely between his own escapades in the business and general point of interest stories about people he has known and restaurants he has worked in. He also tries to explain to the uninformed things that everyone should know about dining out, such as never order fish on a Monday (read the book to find out why) and exactly what a sous-chef is. The book's reputation is that it is causing a bit of a scandal among those who are in the industry, but if that's true than it only adds to the enjoyment, like being let in on big secrets. I would think that those in the industry would enjoy it even more than the average lay person, but to each his own.
Another nice little effect is appreciation for what actually goes on inside a restaurant beyond what the customer may see. It's a revelation as to just how hard these people have to work and all they have to do in preparation, which is sometimes so complicated it takes one or two re-reads of Bourdain's "Day in the Life" chapter to fully comprehend. The other fringe benefit is the various restaurants that Bourdain does refer to as being worthwhile. I can only imagine that it would be great fun to use the book as a guide and eat at as many of these places as possible, assuming that they still exist.
One word of caution: by necessity, there is a lot of explicit (but honest) language and situations. I only say this because it might give some people pause, but in its defense it is also factual and detailed reporting. Bourdain isn't trying to hide the dark side of the restaurant business and there is no need that he should. The passage which serves as an interpreter's guide to kitchen speak is one of the funniest in the book.
Amateur chef, gourmand, or just an average person with an eye towards the finer aspects of the culinary world, Kitchen Confidential is one book you will be sorry you missed if you don't read it.
Want to sit in the store room of a restaurant and spy on the egos? The horseplay? The social pathology? Oh the humanity! This is truly the sex, drugs, and rock and roll of the restaurant industry. Guaranteed, after reading this work, you will never encounter a dining establishment the same way again. You will realize that just on the other side of those swinging doors exists a barely contained lunacy that regards the customer as motivation but not end, and which, if the venue is good, manages to pull off culinary perfection again and again, in spite such seeming obstacles as substance addiction and stab wounds.
Bourdain's raw use of unfiltered language is brilliant. It's as evocative as the aroma of a highly spiced stew. At once memoir and muck rake, the reader is treated to an intimate peek over the shoulder into the author's bohemian and colorful life. The rapturous epiphany of a fourth grader's first taste of vichyssoise. The realization that "food is power". Apprentice misadventures: "they'd let us practice our knifework on whole legs of beef... we were the culinary version of the Manson family...". Industry advisements: avoid buffets. Eat out on Wednesday or Thursday. Forget about Saturday night (unless you know the chef or maitre`d).
I hope to heaven someone makes this into a film. It would be hysterical. A character actors dream. It would be worth the price of admission alone to see whoever plays Adam Real-Last-Name-Unknown, the insane but genius baker who has pots of uniquely based dough starter tucked into all unlikely corners of the premises, and who phones in to work, incapacitated by a bender, yelling at the staff to "Feed the bitch! Feed her or she'll die!" referring to the maintenance of the giant mother vat of bubbling starter pushing its way out of the bowl like some yeasty Audrey II.
If you are a foodie, or anyway close to that, you'll devour the book in one sitting. Get it. Don't hesitate.
Entertaining and full of quotable stories.
Bourdain splits the book into sections corresponding to a six-course meal (including coffee and cigarettes). He weaves back and forth between sections that detail his own experience with the restaurant business and sections that are summations and stories about the different aspects of the trade. This works well as a form, and the book hangs together reasonably smoothly. The prose quality is also quite high-- nothing artistic, but competant and well-written.
To be honest, I struggled as to whether this book deserved three stars or four. I had more or less decided on three when I realized how often since I had read it I had opened my mouth to retell an anecdote to my partner. Any book that I find myself citing that often deserves a bit of slack. That said, think of it as a 4- rather than a 4+. I found the sections about the world of cooking to be the strongest. Unfortunately, I found most of the Hunter S. Thompson-esque autobiography chapters to be self-serving and at least a little bit irritating.
Who's got the fastest emergency room?
Anthony Bourdain chronicles his history in the restaurant world from a dishwasher to the executive chef to one New York's popular bistros. Along the way we are treated to the tales of the steaming hot, pressure cooker that is the restaurant kitchen in action.
Having dated a restaurant owner, I'm inclined to believe the major part of Mr. Bourdain's stories. They are vastly entertaining and he doesn't spare himself when disclosing culinary indiscretions. The drinking, the drugs the bad language, it's all in here.
Strangely enough, it is a love story. Bourdain clearly loves food and cooking and this comes across in this bawdy tale of boisterous bad behavior on the culinary front.
Yup, that's what it's like, alright.
There is some pretty rough stuff going on in this book. Don't be scared, Tony is there to lead you through it. He's not going to hold your hand, though. He's simply going to tell you the truth, plain and unvarnished. He assumes you're at least as smart as him, and for that be grateful. He doesn't dumb anything down, there's no time for that. It's a busy business and there are more important things to do that bottle-feed the slow. Don't worry, you can handle it. Breathe deeply and savor.
See, the professional kitchen is a catchbasin for those who simply can't (or won't) fit in anywhere else. Misfits, half-wits, the criminally insane, it takes a special breed of lunatic to put up with the face-searing heat, the constant abuse from on high, the interminable crush of humanity who simply must be fed. This book is for anyone who truly understands the phrase, "If you can't stand the heat, get out of the kitchen."
Divest yourself of the image of a chef as a cute little fuzzy-wuzzy and grow up a little. Then you will be able to understand this book for what it is: the truth behind what goes on the the kitchen of your favorite eatery. The more you think about what you're eating, the less you'll want to eat it. Just enjoy it, and don't worry too much about how you got it.
Remember, the meal is not the lunch.
Tales from "Behind the Kitchen Door"
The most interesting chapter of the book is the "From Our Kitchen to Your Table" section, where Bourdain confirms many of your worst fears about restaurant dining. Some things I took away from this chapter include the advice never to order fish on a Monday (it is most likely at its least fresh state, having been delivered the previous Thursday to cover the weekend orders), never order your meat well-done (you are pretty well insuring that the chef is going to treat you to the absolute worst cut, figuring you won't notice the difference since it will be dry anyway), and don't be so sure that the bread the waiter or busboy brings when you sit down went straight from the oven to your table (it likely was recycled from another table who didn't eat it).
Bourdain is an engaging writer with a great wit. I was rarely bored during my reading of "Kitchen Confidential". If, however, you are one who is easily offended by coarse language, consider yourself forewarned that this book has a lot of it. I personally wasn't offended by the language, but I did find myself occasionally annoyed when Bourdain would go overboard in describing what a wild and crazy lifestyle he's led. Bourdain would often go on and on about all of the drugs he's done, how much he drinks and how tough and macho he acted in this situation or that situation. There is something inherently off-putting about someone constantly boasting about what a "bad-boy" he is. To Bourdain's credit, he can also be self-deprecating, particularly in the humorous story about how a dumb misunderstanding on his part during a job interview caused him to lose a great opportunity at an upscale steakhouse. Bourdain also devotes an entire chapter to a fellow, more successful, chef and explains the differences between the two of them that make this so. Overall, a very entertaining book that is easy to recommend.
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It is clear that Bourdain enjoys a true passion for both food and cooking, a passion he inherited from the French side of his family. He tells us he decided to become a chef during a trip to southwestern France when he was only ten years of age and it is a decision he stuck to, graduating from the Culinary Institute of America.
Kitchen Confidential is a surprisingly well-written account of what life is really like in the commercial kitchens of the United States; "the dark recesses of the restaurant underbelly." In describing these dark recesses, Bourdain refreshingly casts as many stones at himself as he does at others. In fact, he is brutally honest. There is nothing as tiresome as a "tell-all" book in which the author relentlessly paints himself as the unwitting victim. Bourdain, to his enormous credit, avoids this trap. Maybe he writes so convincingly about drugs and alcohol because drugs and alcohol have run their course through his veins as well as those of others.
The rather raunchy "pirate ship" stories contained in this fascinating but testosterone-rich book help to bring it vividly to life and add tremendous credibility. The book does tend to discourage any would-be female chefs who might read it, but that's not Bourdain's fault; he is simply telling it like it is and telling it hilariously as well.
In an entire chapter devoted to one of the lively and crude characters that populate this book, Bourdain describes a man named Adam: "Adam Real-Last-Name-Unknown, the psychotic bread-baker, alone in his small, filthy Upper West Side apartment, his eyes two different sizes after a 36-hour coke and liquor jag, white crust accumulated at the corners of his mouth, a two-day growh of whiskers--standing there in a shirt and no pants among the porno mags, the empty Chinese takeout containers, as the Spice channel flickers silently on the TV, throwing blue light on a can of Dinty Moore beef stew by an unmade bed." Apparently Bourdain made just as many mistakes at the beginning of his career as did Adam, but the book however, doesn't always paint and bleak picture.
Another chapter entitled "The Life of Bryan," talks about renowned chef Scott Bryan, a man, who, according to Bourdain, made all the right decisions. Bourdain describes Bryan's shining, immaculate kitchen, his well-organized and efficient staff. It's respectful homage, but somehow, we feel that Bourdain, himself, will never be quite as organized as is Bryan, for Bourdain is just too much of the rebel, the original, the maverick.
Kitchen Confidential can be informative as well as wickedly funny. Bourdain is hilarious as he tells us what to order in restaurants and when. For instance, we learn never to eat fish on Mondays, to avoid Sunday brunches and never to order any sort of meat well-done. And, if we ever see a sign that says, "Discount Sushi," we will, if we are smart, run the other way as fast as we possibly can.
Kitchen Confidential isn't undying literature but it's so funny and so well-written that no one should care. It made me hungry for Bourdain's black sea bass crusted in sel de Bretagne with frites. It also made me order his novel, Bone in the Throat. If it is only half as funny and wickedly well-written as is Kitchen Confidential it will certainly be a treat.