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Editorial Reviews
Craig Murray is no ordinary diplomat. He enjoys a drink or three, and if it's in the company of a pretty girl, so much the better. Murray's scant regard for the rules of the game also extends to his job. When, in the first few weeks of his posting to the little-known Central Asian Republic of Uzbekistan, he comes across photographs of a political dissident who has literally been boiled to death, he ignores diplomatic nicety and calls it for what it is: torture of the cruelest sort.
Murray soon discovers that this is no one-off incident: fierce abuse of those opposing the government is rife. It's not long before he is tearing around the country in his embassy Land Rover, shaking off Uzbek police tails and crashing through roadblocks to meet with dissidents and expose their persecutors. He even confronts the despotic president, Islom Karimov, face-to-face.
But Murray's bosses in London's Foreign Office, ever mindful of their senior partners in Washington, don't want to upset the applecart. Karimov is an ally in the newly announced Global War on Terror. His country is host to a big American air base. The last thing they need is a battling young diplomat stirring things up. In Craig Murray, that's exactly what they've got...
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Fascinating book and character
Uzbekistan was an important sideshow in the post 9/11 "war on terror" in Afghanistan and its story has not been well covered by US media. As part of the war on the Taliban, the US sought and got cooperation from the Uzbek government to establish a major air base within spitting distance of Afghanistan and made its deal with the devil in order to do so. The Brits, or at least Tony Blair's government, had little active role in that but did support the US. Murray, as the new ambassador, quickly fell out of step with the Blair government and the book is largely focused on the efforts of the now rogue ambassador to expose and limit the ghastly human rights abuses being carried out by the Uzbek government under the guise of supporting the war on terror. The government of Uzbekistan is kleptocracy and a police state throwback to Stalinist times. Craig Murray was one of a very few (and clearly the leading) western diplomats who accurately pointed out this inconvenient fact and its consequences. The toady US ambassadors at the time failed to take a stand and actively worked to undermine Murray. The book describes events occurring before the 2005 massacre of hundreds of protesters in Andejan which finally caused the US to back away from supporting the Ubek government.
This is not a simple history or rant against a totalitarian regime. It is a first person documentary of issues that both the US and British governments were trying to sweep under the rug. Murray's decision to incorporate some mundane details of diplomatic life actually works very well by creating a context for what is going on and by making an otherwise very political topic much more than just a polemic. His single handed quixotic struggle to expose the harm caused by the US/Uzbek marriage of convenience and the clearly horrific abuses of human rights and democracy in the region would become wearisome and dry without the spice of booze, belly dancers, and clandestine meetings. The book at times seems to deal almost as much with his unambassadorial lifestyle as it does with politics but frankly it makes a much better read because of that. Murray's memory for detail is remarkable and appears to be quite accurate according to friends who attended some of the events he describes. Having worked myself in Tashkent during the time Murray is writing about I'd add that he really doesn't exaggerate in describing Uzbekistan or the difficult lives and fears of the average citizen.
Murray could well have titled the book "Fear and Loathing in Tashkent" and tried to list Hunter Thompson as a coauthor. Hollywood would (?will) certainly not need to spice this story up for the big screen. I don't know if Murray is naturally as open as he comes across in the book or whether he has painted his self portrait (as described in the US title) simply because he thought it best to put everything on the table himself rather than let his enemies snipe at him over lifestyle issues. Murray obviously did take his job, as he defined it, very seriously and in the end did sacrifice his career rather than bend on his principles. Although he addresses some of his own foibles as part and parcel of his boozy adventures, this is not an autobiography. His marriage ends halfway through the book but he never lets on about any trouble at home (though it is hard to imagine any spouse putting up with his antics). We don't hear about the break up of his family other than noting that the final straw was his obsession and open courting of a beautiful belly dancer half his age. (I told you Hollywood would not need to spice this story up...too bad Jack Nicholson is too old to play the lead).
The book is really a combination expose, polemic and titillating confession that just works as a great read. His writing is lucid, sharp and he never drones when making political points. One cannot help but admire his willingness to risk and destroy his diplomatic career in the service of a greater good. He was right and I suspect history will be kind to him. As best I can tell he is currently an itinerant writer living in London. One comes away from this book admiring him and hoping that he will bounce back into some human rights leadership role again. And, if he doesn't, I hope at least he finds peace and happiness with his belly dancer.
an eye-opening book on the diplomatic world
Anyone Who Tells the Truth Is Bound to Be Found Out Sooner or Later
What this book reveals to me is how the culture of spin, which is annoying when you read Mandelson's latest doubletalk in the Guardian, is devastating and Kafkaesque in the field. Murray shows how Labour's truthectomy has led vast numbers of them and the civil servants they order about, to be aghast when someone demonstrates some attachment for the truth. Blair's most damaging legacy may prove to be his astonishing ability to act with 'sincerity' while being several miles down the toilet in his own lies, and the effect this brilliant propoganda has had on the culture of this country.
On a recent Youtube of evidence Murray gave to some parliamentary committee, Murray points out that Thatcher forbade any truck with evidence derived from torture. This week on Channel 4 news I have seen young fresh-faced David Miliband, Labour's hope for the future waxing indignant with Jon Snow because Snow is alleging MI6 coverups about our current duplicity in this area.
To get back to the book, it shows how the UK while ostensibly campaigning against corruption and torture, together with the US forcibly prevented Murray from pursuing human rights issues in Uzbekistan despite Murray's persistent courage and success in doing so. Murray points out that most people in the Foreign Office knew what was going on but saw no need to do anything about it.
Murray quotes Oscar Wilde: 'Anyone who tells the truth...'
PS By the way, read his other book. Its the best book on contemporary African politics I have read.
Don't Let the title Mislead You or Put You Off
First of all, it is a police state. In many ways it was a much harsher experience than my visit to Leningrad in 1985. There is police everywhere, with their florescent red baton and they carry out extensive checks. Crossing from one province to another, is like going through a border crossing, which becomes painful when you are travelling through 6 provinces during a single day. The ordinary people are scared of the police. All the policemen that I saw without exception were fat!!! College students and government workers get drafted in during cotton picking. I saw some minors also working in the cotton fields. Nobody can own property. They can lease it from the state but the state can take it back whenever they want. USD can be changed into the local currency but not the other way around.(Almost impossible)Big black market flourishes. If local people wish to visit Tashkent for more than 72 hours they have to register with the police.
We as tourists had to get a detailed form filled showing expensive goods (camera, gold earnings etc) and currency being bought in, and that document is almost as valuable as your passport. You have to show it to customs when you are going through customs on your exit from the country and you can be in serious trouble if you lose that document. The other thing is you need to register with the local authorities each time you stay in a new hotel. The hotel does that for you, but you have to have those slips of paper with you all the time. Between my mother and me I had 14 such slips. Again you are in serious trouble if you lose these slips.
In the airports we were asked for passports even for internal flights. Once while crossing a province our passports were checked and once we were asked for the hotel registration slips. I was given a warning once for taking a photo of a government building in Fergana. It was not an important building (Like Home ministry / defence). However the policeman was very polite and did not ask me to delete the photo or ask for a bribe. I was scared as I was alone in the evening and the policeman could not speak English. Also in the airport a police official was very insistent that I carry a parcel for him to India and I refused, but it was scary.
However by and large there is one system for tourists and another for locals. We as tourists got waved through most of the time. However we could see the ordinary people being checked. Also long lines for gas( CNG) for the car. Very surprising since the country produces its own gas in abundance.
About the rape cases, here I got a different impression from Mr Murray. It happens rarely and normally to prostitutes. However I was there only for 10 days, and Mr Murray was there for 2 years. You would be very foolish to go to a house of ill repute as I heard of stories of tourists being exhorted for money by the prostitute / police for over 1000's of dollars.
There are so many such countries with function a police state, so I don't think that Uzbekistan is any eyesore. Democracy flourished in India because the British had elections in India several times before the partition. The people were used to the idea.
Now let me review the book. If Mr Murray was from the Human Rights watch I would have said that he would have done a fantastic job. However he was the ambassador of UK, and it was not his job to address rallies of opposition. No former colonized country likes a European (former colonizer) person to dictate anything to them. It is due to the generous nature of the Uzbek government that Mr Murray, was not asked to leave by them.
Secondly, as an ambassador, you are representing your country. You might call me conservative, but I don't think that it portrays a good impression of your country if you are in a bar during the wee hours of the morning, picking up girls. Uzbekistan despite its floating population of prostitutes is a very very conservative society. Mr Murray gives credence to people who call the west as "The decadent west. "as he is an example of that. You represent the best in your country, and you should behave accordingly.
Thirdly militancy is a problem in Uzbekistan. It is a society in transition. Most people are Muslims, but many have not read the Koran. However they ALL want to know more. Who is going to teach them and fill the gap ??? The Wahhabis from Saudi Arabia, the Taliban ??? or some moderate group. There is a certain stability in Uzbekistan and that is due the governments efforts. You need to give them credit that it is not a Muslim state but a secular state. People are happy that the country is stable.
I got different versions of the Andajain massacre when I was there and also I don't agree with Mr Murray that the government carried out the bomb attacks on its own. Its like wild stories of the US government carrying out the 9/11 attacks and putting explosives in the WTC buildings. Absolute rubbish.
Mr Murray comes as over emotional several times during the book. I think a certain bias is there because of relationship with Nadira. Probably many of the stories that she has told him he has presumed to be factual.
Interesting read all the same. Very honest but it gives a poor impression of Mr. Murray character.
Well those of you who wish to visit Uzbekistan, despite it being a police state, horrible hotels, airports where you almost have to load your luggage into the aircraft, old aircrafts which are not listed in "Our fleet " and with no emergency exit (marked In case of emergency CUT HERE) its a beautiful place. The people are so nice, and there is so much to see and learn, and the cities are clean and really beautiful.
My mother who is 70 loved it and we would go back anytime again.
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His subsequent attempt to stand up against a regime that enjoyed boiling people alive, executing real or perceived enemies of the state in extra-judicial killings, etc. subsequently got Mr. Murray into trouble with the Blair administration since he was stirring the pot with one of their erstwhile allies in the "War on Terror". However, as Mr. Murray so eloquently lays out, it is precisely this type of tyrannical regime that leads to the rise of fundamentalist, extremist groups in the first place.
Mr. Murray went to extraordinary lengths to represent British interests in Uzbekistan and traveled the whole nation to get to know it better. Along the way, he tried his best to encourage Democracy and Rule of Law, a novelty in Uzbekistan. Some of his more dangerous and coloful confrontations included standing up to various local government officials, thugs, etc. and are recounted in gripping detail. It is evident that Mr. Murray risked considerable harm to himself.
Like most other diplomats in Uzbekistan, Mr. Murray could have simply looked the other way, just as the British government instructed him to when he reported human rights abuses and other issues with the regime that the Blair and Bush administrations wanted to cozy up to. That is not to say that he is a knight in shining armor, but he seems to be pretty honest about his personal flaws.
When one of his internal Memos to the Foreign Office decrying the human rights abuses in Uzbekistan was leaked to the press, the British government took extraordinary steps to kick him out of the Foreign Service. With his departure, the British Foreign Service lost one of their more courageous and competent ambassadors, though perhaps he was a bit too honest and outspoken for the diplomatic club.
This book was originally published under the title "Murder in Samarkand" in Britain. This version names more names regarding the folk working behind the scenes to kick Mr. Murray out of the Foreign Service, thanks to US freedom of speech laws. The British paperback version has more pictures, however. It's a very interesting read, and I highly recommend it.